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Key Takeaways
- Bakuchiol is a plant-based alternative to retinol, offering similar benefits without the irritation.
- Rosehip oil contains natural retinoic acid, boosting collagen and revitalizing skin without causing dryness.
- Azelaic acid fights acne and pigmentation, offering benefits comparable to retinol without harsh side effects.
There’s no denying that in the world of skincare ingredients, retinoids reign supreme. They’re the cream of the crop (pun intended), beloved by dermatologists for their ability to deliver a laundry list of benefits for the skin. This group of vitamin A derivatives—of which retinol is one over-the-counter version—can pretty much do it all. Retinoids are also beloved by derms for treating acne, thanks to their ability to help keep pores clear and their anti-inflammatory effects.1
For some people, however, all these pros can come with some serious cons. Retinoids are notorious for their irksome potential side effects, including redness, dryness, and general irritation. The good news is that you do have other options: natural, plant-based alternatives to retinol. Keep reading for 13 stellar natural retinol alternatives, as recommended by dermatologists.
Meet the Experts
- Robyn Gmyrek, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Union Derm in New York City.
- Defne Arikan is a cosmetic ingredient specialist and the founder of Bryhel Cosmetic Labs.
- Yehiel Amouyal is a cosmetic chemist at Bryhel Cosmetic Labs.
- Mansha Sethi Thacker, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist at St. Luke’s University Health Network in Pennsylvania.
- Brendan Camp, MD, is a double board-certified dermatologist in dermatology and dermatopathology at MDCS Dermatology: Medical Dermatology & Cosmetic Surgery in New York.
- Alexandra Bowles, DO is a board-certified dermatologist at MONA Dermatology in Cincinnati, Ohio.
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Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol “is perhaps the most well-known and well-studied alternative, with results that are most similar to retinol,” says cosmetic ingredient specialist, Defne Arikan. It comes from the leaves and seeds of the babchi plant and, while it isn’t a vitamin A derivative, functions similarly by working on the same pathways as retinol when it comes to stimulating the production of collagen and elastin, dermatologist, Robin Gmyrek, MD, notes. (She adds that it’s also very antioxidant-rich and has anti-inflammatory effects.)
The major advantage bakuchiol has over retinol? It’s more suitable for sensitive skin types. In fact, in a head-to-head study comparing the two, both ingredients were shown to improve wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, and skin firmness—but the bakuchiol was better tolerated.2 Plus, since it’s not a vitamin A derivative, people who are pregnant or breastfeeding can use it, says Dr. Gmyrek.
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Rosehip Oil
Rosehip oil contains small amounts of retinoic acid, says Dr. Gmyrek, who notes that retinol must be converted into retinoic acid in the skin before it has any effect. To that point, “it’s excellent for regenerating the skin, increasing collagen production, and restoring radiance to dull complexions,” says Arikan.
And while there’s no research comparing it to retinol because it is rich in the fatty acids that are essential for maintaining a healthy skin barrier, rosehip oil can also help improve visible signs of aging by preventing moisture loss, says Dr. Gmyrek.
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Rambutan
There’s a fair amount of information floating around on the Internet comparing rambutan, a tropical fruit, to retinol, though Dr. Gmyrek notes that there is no good scientific data to support claims that it improves collagen or elastin production. (Just one study performed in mice and one small, industry-sponsored study that didn’t yield noteworthy results.)
Still, rambutan can have solid anti-aging effects on the skin due to its high antioxidant content. “Rambutan has an array of antioxidants that can decrease skin aging by neutralizing free radicals, protecting the skin against oxidative damage, and decreasing inflammation and the destruction of collagen and elastic tissue,” Dr. Gmyrek explains.
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Carrot Seed Oil
Derived from the seeds of wild carrots, carrot seed oil is rich in beta-carotene, a precursor to vitamin A that research shows can help with cellular regeneration, says cosmetic chemist, Yehiel Amouyal.
Additionally, it’s also rich in antioxidants—vitamins C and E, as well as vitamin A, which can be converted into retinol in the skin. Dr. Gmyrek adds that a recent study did find it to be effective for skin rejuvenation.3
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Sea Buckthorn Oil
“The pulp of sea buckthorn berries is a nutritional concentrate rich in vitamins, minerals, and nutrients,” says Amouyal. More specifically, sea buckthorn oil is often used in skincare, largely for, again, its high concentration of antioxidants, including carotenes, vitamins E and C, and flavonoids, she says.
It’s also rich in essential fatty acids, making it an exceptionally nourishing ingredient. While the exact mechanism of action is unclear, there have been a few studies showing that sea buckthorn oil promotes collagen production and is helpful in wound healing, Dr. Gmyrek says.4
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Azelaic Acid
“[Azelaic acid] occurs naturally in grains such as wheat, barley, and rye and is also created on our skin naturally by a yeast—Malassezia furfur—which is part of our normal skin flora,” explains Dr. Gmyrek.
While there’s no research comparing it directly to retinol, there’s a lot of overlap between the benefits of the two ingredients. For example, azelaic acid is also a choice acne-fighting ingredient: “It kills the bacteria that infect pores, decreases inflammation and redness, and exfoliates and decreases the production of keratin, a natural substance that can lead to clogged pores,” says Dr. Gmyrek. It’s also shown to reduce pigment cells, which is why it’s used for the treatment of melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, she adds.
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Niacinamide
Niacinamide is slightly different than the other ingredients on this list, as it’s not a plant-derived ingredient but rather a form of vitamin B-3. It offers many of the same benefits as retinol, namely reducing inflammation, increasing collagen production, treating acne, and decreasing unwanted or excess hyperpigmentation, says Dr. Gmyrek.
Where the two differ is when it comes to hydration: Whereas retinol is drying, niacinamide helps maintain hydration in the skin, notes Amouyal. For that reason, it’s a good choice for all skin types and is sometimes even combined with retinol in certain formulations, he adds.
“In my clinical experience, I believe niacinamide does a lot of what retinol does, and I recommend it for very sensitive-skinned patients,” says Dr. Gmyrek, though she does add that its results are not as impressive as those you get from retinol.
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Lactic Acid
Lactic acid, an organic compound, works as a gentle exfoliant. This ingredient “breaks bonds between dead skin cells, leaving the skin smooth, softer, and brighter,” says dermatologist, Brendan Camp, MD.
Studies suggest that lactic acid and glycolic acid may also encourage collagen production, which Dr. Camp says helps to limit the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.5
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Cacay Oil
Native to the Orinoco and Amazon regions, cacay, mainly used as an oil, has proven skin benefits.6 “If retinol tends to dry out or irritate your skin, cacay oil is a great alternative,” says dermatologist, Mansha Sethi Thacker, MD. The seed oil is packed with vitamin A and linoleic acid (vitamin F), which Dr. Thacker says helps boost collagen and keep your skin looking firm [and] protects the skin from environmental stressors with its antioxidants.
“What’s great about cacay oil is that it’s more hydrating than retinol, so you don’t have to worry about redness or peeling,” she says. “You can use it every day without the irritation you might get from retinol. Just add 2-3 drops at night to clean skin before your moisturizer.” Dr. Thacker mentions it has three times more retinol than rosehip oil, so it works well for acne scars or hyperpigmentation, while also supporting a strong skin barrier.
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Glycolic Acid
“Glycolic acid is a great alternative to retinol if you’re looking to smooth out uneven texture and tackle acne, blackheads, or whiteheads,” says Dr. Thacker. Derived from sugarcane, she explains that this alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) exfoliates the skin and speeds up cell turnover. “This helps fade dark spots from melasma or sun damage, and over time, it can even reduce fine lines and wrinkles,” Dr. Thacker adds.
Glycolic acid can also brighten up your complexion. “If you have sensitive or rosacea-prone skin, introduce it slowly to avoid irritation,” Dr. Thacker recommends. “Since glycolic acid can make your skin more sun-sensitive, be sure to wear sunscreen during the day. [And] to add it to your routine, wash your face first, then apply a small amount before layering on your moisturizer.”
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Resorcinol
Resorcinol is a phenolic compound, says dermatologist, Alexandra Bowles, DO, and while it’s not a retinol product, it provides mild exfoliation while promoting skin renewal.7 “This may not give as strong an effect as retinol, but the exfoliation leads to improvement in overall texture and smoothness of the skin and is considered more gentle than retinol,” she adds.
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Peptides
“Peptides are building blocks of proteins,” says Dr. Camp. “Collagen and elastin are two structural proteins in the dermis that provide rigidity and structure to the skin. As we age, collagen and elastin production slow, and degradation from environmental influences like UV radiation increases.”
With this theory, Dr. Camp explains that peptides in skincare products may encourage the body to produce more proteins—and with that, more collagen and elastin.
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Vitamin C
Vitamin C needs no introduction—it is the ultimate skin ingredient. It’s a powerful antioxidant and a gentler alternative to retinol, says Dr. Bowles, that helps to protect the skin from free radicals caused by environmental stressors that contribute to premature aging. “Adding vitamin C to your routine can help prevent and repair oxidative damage from the environment,” she explains.